The Cleansing Face Balm: why oil is the best way to start

One of the first things I learnt while studying for my diploma in organic skincare formulation was a simple rule: like dissolves like. Oil lifts oil. Water on its own does very little to shift something oily.

Your skin at the end of the day is a good example. Makeup, sunscreen and the natural oil your skin makes all have one thing in common: they are designed to stay put, and water does not shift them well. That is why so many people finish washing their face and still find foundation on the towel.

The Cleansing Face Balm is the first step I formulated for that. It melts makeup and sunscreen with oil, then rinses away with water.

What it is and who it is for

The Cleansing Face Balm is a 100ml solid balm with a soft coconut scent. It comes with a bamboo spatula. It melts on contact with warm skin, then turns into a light milk when you add water.

It is for you if:

• you wear makeup, from tinted moisturiser to full coverage foundation, mascara and eyeliner
• you wear sunscreen every day, which is designed to be water resistant and needs a proper cleanse
• you want to double cleanse in the evening, with the balm first and a second gentle wash after
• you dislike the tight feeling some foaming cleansers leave on the face

What is inside, and why I chose it

This is a short ingredient list. Every ingredient has a clear job.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride. Often called fractionated coconut oil, and it makes up most of the balm. It is a light, silky oil that dissolves makeup and sunscreen well but does not feel heavy or greasy on the skin. I chose it over thicker oils so the balm rinses away easily.

Stearic acid and cetyl alcohol. These give the balm its soft, solid texture in the jar, so it melts on your skin rather than running through your fingers. Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol, not a drying one.

Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate. This is the emulsifier, and it is the clever part. On its own, oil does not mix with water, so an oil cleanser can leave a greasy film. The emulsifier lets the oil and water come together, which is why the balm turns milky when you add water and rinses clean. I want to be honest that this ingredient is partly synthetic. I chose it because it does this job well, and it is the reason the balm leaves your skin feeling clean rather than oily.

Vitamin E. Protects the oils in the jar from going off.

Fragrance. A coconut fragrance oil gives the balm its soft coconut scent. The fragrance contains coumarin, which is listed on the label so anyone sensitive to it can check.

What makes it different

The balm to milk change is what sets this apart from simply using an oil. Plain oil dissolves makeup well, but it can be hard to rinse off, and you end up reaching for a harsher cleanser to remove the oil. Here the emulsifier does that work for you.

It also contains no water, so it is concentrated. A small scoop is enough for a full face.

How to use it

1. With dry hands, use the spatula to scoop out a small amount, about the size of a hazelnut.
2. Warm it between your fingertips and massage it onto dry skin in gentle circles, over your makeup and sunscreen.
3. Keep massaging for about a minute, so the balm has time to dissolve everything.
4. Wet your fingertips and keep massaging. The balm will turn milky.
5. Rinse with lukewarm water and pat your skin dry.
6. Follow with the Cleansing Face Bar for a second cleanse.

Around the eyes: I use the balm to remove my own eye makeup, and a few customers have told me it felt gentle around their eyes too. Close your eyes and massage it softly over your lids and lashes, then rinse well. Keep it out of the eyes themselves, and if any gets in, rinse with plenty of water.

My tip: dry hands, dry face and a clean, dry spatula. Water is the trigger that turns the balm into a milk, so if your skin is already wet, it turns milky before it has had a chance to melt your makeup. And keep the spatula out of the shower, so water never gets into the jar.

Why double cleanse

The balm lifts makeup, sunscreen and oil. The second cleanse, with a gentle cleanser like the Cleansing Face Bar, cleans the skin itself. Two gentle steps do the job better than one harsh one, and your skin feels clean without feeling tight.

In the morning, or on days when you have not worn makeup or sunscreen, the second step on its own is often enough.

What it is free from, and why

This balm contains no added water, no silicones and no mineral oil.

Because there is no added water, it does not need the same preservative system as a water based cleanser. Silicones and mineral oil are not harmful, but I wanted the slip and melt in this balm to come from a plant derived oil that rinses away cleanly.

Looking after your balm

Store it in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, with the lid closed. Always use the spatula rather than wet fingers, and keep it dry.

Try it

If you have ever finished washing your face and still found makeup on your towel, start your evening routine with the Cleansing Face Balm. Pair it with the Cleansing Face Bar for a simple, gentle double cleanse.

You will find the full ingredients list on the Cleansing Face Balm product page. If you have any questions about using it, send me a message.

Eliz, organic skincare formulator and founder of ECBEAUTYLAB